In Conversation With Zoë Schulz of Femme Forte

Zoë Schulz is a writer, creative and founder of ethical fashion brand: femme forte. A brand that uniquely intertwines sustainable style and social issues that matter, femme forte is definitely worth a browse! Last week, we were fortunate enough to sit down and chat with Zoë (and her lovely dog) from her home in Brighton. We discussed a lot, from small businesses to the climate crisis and Zoë’s dedication to amplifying underrepresented voices through her work while producing fashion sustainably.

Bloom: Firstly, I think the fact you started Femme Forte as a way to raise money for charity is really admirable. What led you to begin it? And what was starting a brand from scratch like?

Zoë:  It started off as a very small project. I was living in London and volunteering on a project to create an LGBTQ+ centre for London, I had some friends that were really involved in it and I could see how dedicated they were to creating the centre. So, it started in-part as a way to support them. At the same time, I was learning a lot about sustainable fashion and the perils of how much we are consuming. So, I took those two areas and brought them together. At that point, I just thought I would make a few t-shirts and see what happened with it. 

In terms of creating a brand, I think it was very much taking it one task at a time. I never looked at it as this big project, I suppose, or in a big daunting way. It was just taking it one step at a time. At first I just expected to just sell a few t-shirts, maybe one to my mum or a few friends. And then the first ones that I released did really well which was surprising and exciting. Then, it just grew from there.

Bloom: Connected to that, how do you produce sustainable clothes? What’s it like to design them? Could you tell us a little about the process itself?

Zoë: When I first started it, I didn’t have a clue about how to create a sustainable piece of clothing. But, I knew that I needed to learn as it was vital whatever I made was cruelty-free and kind to the planet.

So, I spent a lot of time doing research, learning a lot of things and finding some really incredible organisations out there that were helping small businesses to create sustainable garments. The clothing that I tend to use is from Earth Positive. They are really transparent on where the cotton for the t-shirt comes from, which is all organic, there are no plastics or anything hidden in there. You can see exactly where the material is from, where it’s made and that all workers involved are paid fairly. 

Then, after that stage, it’s manufactured in Europe, in a factory that is run by renewable power sources, and, then  it comes to the UK where it’s screen-printed. I work with a small screen printer called I Dress Myself who specialise in printing with eco friendly inks. Plus, all the inks they use are plastic free. At first I didn’t realise that a lot of the plastics in the ink used on clothing is full of micro plastics. Then, every time you wash those clothes, those micro plastics end up in the ocean, so it’s super important to make sure that any inks used contain any plastics or harmful chemicals.

Then finally the printed pieces arrive at my flat in Brighton, where I pack them up and post them out myself.

Bloom: Have you always been interested in sustainability and slow fashion? What was your relationship with fashion like growing up?

Zoë: I wish I’d always been passionate about sustainable fashion! But, no, not at all. When I was younger, I was such a sucker for fast fashion and definitely fell into the trap of fearing “outfit repeating”. I think I was being pulled into that whole shame that we have about outfit repeating and buying things and throwing them away. It wasn’t until the last few years that I’ve really started to learn a lot more about sustainability, and it’s helped shape how I shop and how I approach fashion. And I think, because of that, I will never, ever judge anyone for wearing fast fashion. But I think the more we learn about it and the more we educate people about the reasons for avoiding fast fashion, the more we can move away from it as a society. 

Growing up I think I was very intrigued by fashion, but it also kind of terrified me. I wanted to fit in and wear what other people were wearing. I don’t think I really knew who I was and, in that sense, didn’t really feel confident expressing myself through fashion. I also think I dressed a lot for the male-gaze and to perform femininity. I think that shows how brainwashed we often are into dressing how society expects us to. But then, as I grew older and learnt more about myself fashion started to feel a lot more freeing, fun and empowering. It allowed me to explore myself, my queerness and my femininity outside of what we’re told it’s meant to be. And now I really love fashion. Wearing bright, ridiculous things, standing out, all of that. But, it really took me learning a lot more about myself, and feeling confident in myself, to be confident in expressing myself through fashion. In schools there’s often so much shame and bullying around what we wear and social pressure to have the newest items. This is then one of the first introductions we have to our self worth being linked to material objects and starts that need for overconsumption, so unlearning this is a big part of my journey with sustainable fashion.

Bloom: Do you have any tips for people who want to break up with fast fashion but aren’t sure how to go about it?

Zoë:  I think starting slowly. You don’t have to do it all at once- although you can, if you want. But it can go in baby steps, there’s nothing wrong with that! And starting with education and learning. Coming at it from an angle of curiosity and growth, not of guilt and shame. I think the more I learnt about sustainable fashion and the fast fashion industry, the more I realised it wasn’t something that I could support. I think making sure we also approach it from a point of kindness and compassion, not judgement. There’s a lot of privileges that come into play when we talk about avoiding fast fashion, it’s not possible for everyone. We have to accept and be okay with that. Buying vintage clothing can now be so expensive, buying larger sizes can be much more difficult, plus access to second hand shops and all these factors come into play. So, I think we have to be kind in the way we’re looking at it. And remember that we’re here to fight the fast fashion industry, not each other. 

Bloom: Femme Forte has a strong community and feeling of inclusivity around it; amplifying LGBTQ+ voices and Anti-Racism work to name a couple of the topics you promote. Is it important to you to say something alongside the clothes themselves, and to have that inclusive, friendly, community feel on your platform and in your brand?

Zoë: For me, it’s a big part of my work outside of femme forte. So, in that way, anything that I create is naturally going to touch on these issues. But, I also think, if we are talking about sustainability, fast fashion or the climate crisis; we have to make sure we’re also talking about racism. The two systems are one and the same, they’re so interlinked. If we think about who benefits from fast fashion and who’s exploited it’s almost always the white, male billionaires up the top, with women of colour in the Global South facing exploitation. Even when we donate clothes to second hand shops, 10% of this is usually sold and 90% then ends up in landfills or is dumped in the Global South. This then has a massive impact on the climate. For anyone talking about sustainability, I think that this has to be at the centre of the conversation. Majority of those affected by the climate crisis right now are indigenous, black and brown people. So, they need to be leading these conversations. We need to be listening to and learning from them. When we turn to the news, often the people speaking about the climate crisis tend to be very white. But we have Google, we have no excuse, especially as white people, to go out and find that information, to listen to the people that it’s affecting and to marginalised voices. I think that has to be my role, if I’m in this industry, to amplify those voices. And to make sure that I’m not ever speaking when I should be listening, because these are topics where I don’t need to control the conversation. And I’m definitely still learning how best to do this, but we have no other choice because we have to fight for our planet and we have to speak up for each other. 

Bloom: You’re a writer as well. You’ve obviously written for us in the past and I noticed the Femme Forte: Explores section on your site. Could you tell us about your writing and that side of Femme Forte too?

 Zoë: femme forte: Explores is a new part of the website that I launched earlier this year. This aims to amplify and uplift the voices, within sustainable fashion but also outside of that, across creative industries and people in my community who are working to create a kinder society. Through femme forte, I’ve come to meet and learn from so many different, interesting people within slow fashion and across creative industries. So, it was just about creating a space where I could share their stories. I’m still looking for more stories to feature so definitely reach out if you know someone!

Bloom: Linked to that, is it important to you that you have lots of different creative outputs?

Zoë:  Yes! I think when I was younger I never really thought of myself as a creative person. But, I’ve come to realise that we’re all creative in our own ways and the best way to become better at something, is just to give it a go and try. But I am someone who always has different projects on the go. I think that helps me to not get bored of one thing and to stay stimulated in that way. I do think it’s really important that we all are able to find different ways to express ourselves and essentially share parts of who we are with the world.

Bloom: What are some of your favourite sustainable fashion brands or smaller businesses?

Zoë: There are so, so many! One of the greatest things about having started a small business is that you get to meet so many other people running independent businesses and sustainable projects. This is through social media but also (when it was possible) at markets you get to know all the other stall holders and everyone really supports one another. Rat Betty is a jewellery place that does really cool sustainable jewellery. Adam Spratley is someone I met at a DIY market and he makes these really cool calendars and art supplies. There’s a brand called Cagey’s Planet that makes amazing ethical fashion. Ash Stitch does hand stitched embroidery pieces which I also love.

Bloom: Do you have any advice for someone who might be interested in starting their own sustainable company or small business?

Zoë:  It’s probably a bit cliché, but I’d say just go for it! That’s the advice everyone gives, but I think it is because it resonates. There’s never going to be an ideal time. You have to try and see what happens. We learn as we go along. We’re not perfect. We don’t know everything at the beginning. But by doing it and putting your things out in the world, you will learn so much and meet so many other people.

Bloom: And, lastly, I know it’s hard to make any plans at the moment, but, what are your hopes for Femme Forte in the future?

Zoë: Yeah…the future, who knows! I hope that femme forte continues to grow, that it continues to resonate with people and helps people learn about sustainability and ethical fashion. I hope that I can keep growing and creating through it and learning more about myself, through what I create.

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Thank you very much to Zoë for taking the time to talk to us! If you’d like to find out more about Femme Forte and Zoë’s work, you can do so through the links below.

Interview by Lauren Burns (editor)

Zoë Schulz is a writer, creative and founder of Femme Forte

Follow Femme Forte on Instagram

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